Everybody gets dressed ... Each day we stand in front of our closets and ask, "Who am I going to be today?" Nothing characterizes us with the immediacy of the clothes we wear. Clothes are the costumes of our everyday lives; each outfit diminishing the fine line between who we really are and who we long to be. We hide behind the convention of dressing for the part - and revel in each new transformation. "Who are you going to be today?" Yet, while each outfit has the power to transform us, the contents of our closet reveal us.
So what's in your closet? Inspired curiosity has led me to this question; the colors, patterns, shapes, and memories inside closets seem to tell stories in ways people don't. Initially I was interested in discovering more about people dealing with the reality of getting dressed each day; I quickly discovered that when closet doors are thrown open more than clothing spills out. From time to time I'll be sharing stories with you about some amazing closets and the fascinating people they belong to. Fashion lives beyond the runway; in my closet, in yours and in stranger places than that - We all do it - Everybody gets dressed one leg at a time.
I began in a familiar place ... the closets of my friends Jessica and Linden are truly a wonder to behold. They live by the motto "too much is never enough", and as roommates their combined forces are awe-inspiring. I don't know if I know anyone who takes getting dressed more seriously then they do, but I do know the result is always inspired. Though excess is something they both have in common, they each have distinct approaches to fashion. Like most people in their early twenties, Linden and Jess are challenged to look spectacular without the luxury of spending heaps of cash on designer labels. They are more then up for the challenge, pulling together looks that are far more stylish and creative then what you see on the pages of a magazine. Inspiration comes from all kinds of sources, Jessica keeps inspiration files of things that catch her eye.
The seeds of this fashion fascination started early on for both of them. Linden has a memory from when she is five years old and getting ready to take her school pictures. She was trying to decide on which outfit to wear, but after sorting through her entire closet she was quite convinced nothing would do, so she went to her neighbors and borrowed something. The fact that Linden is now a stylist and does essentially the same thing makes the tale oddly prescient, she still loves borrowing clothes and having her picture taken then giving them back. Sometimes she doesn't have to go far to borrow; though her own closet is filled to the brim with choices, sometimes the perfect addition to her outfits is in the next room in Jessica's closet.
Jessica observed at a very young age, that the way you dress grants you access; she says that clothes carry a lot of potency because of the way they open doors for you. She was quickly outdoing everyone with her ingenious take on fashion, taking careful stock of her closet and the trends she always has the perfect outfit. Unlike most people who can't wait to wear their new clothes, Jess savors the new clothes waiting for the perfect moment to wear them. She keeps her closet carefully organized, putting notes on some things so she can quickly take stock of what's inside. Jessica shared some black and white pictures from "the early years", it's clear that playing dress up has always been important. She wore a nightgown from Victoria Secret to her senior prom — imagination and resourcefulness reign supreme. A black motorcycle jacket and a kitschy, tarty and fun red and white polka-dotted dress are two pieces in Jessica's closet that define her. The jacket makes her feel strong and sexy, a bit like Emma Peel; and the dress ...well she's been Betty Boop for Halloween more then once.
Linden's approach to getting dressed is grounded in memories, each day she tries to wear one piece that once belonged to her grandmother. She keeps everything and is always finding ways of reinventing the memories in her closet. Her mother never worried about what Linden wore, because it didn't take long for her to figure out that Linden had it under control, though she dressed differently then everyone around her, the outfits worked. One of my favorite things about Linden is her ability to quickly translate inspiration into a sensational outfit. For example a corset exhibit earlier this year inspired her to create a neckpiece out of red pleather, and feathers that were left over from past creative ventures. While her closet provides a wide range of options, Linden loves playing with accessories, so much so that she still has earrings from years ago, perhaps parrot earrings will make a comeback. Inspiration comes from all kinds of sources; Jessica actually keeps inspiration files overflowing with things that catch her eye, the research helps keep her a couple steps ahead the trends.
As roommates there's a definite sense of collaboration between the two of them; it's always nice to have someone else around for input or to play "hair twister". Their closets are really fun places to visit, but it's even more fun actually getting to watch what they pull out of them. Some of my favorite times with Jessica and Linden are before we actually go out. The champagne filled process of getting dressed, planning the outfit, figuring out which accessories add the perfect touch and finally the hair and makeup routine makes for much laughter. I've learned a lot of things from Linden and Jessica and not all of them about fashion. Their self-confidence and inner beauty make their fashion forays pale in comparison. Walking into a room with them the power of three is clear. For them, getting dressed is about expressiveness, about whimsy and about joy; and though the clothes they wear are divine, they are just the elaborate packaging for the brilliance that lies within.
The next story that unfolded from my closet research may sound like an Urban Legend; but this is a true story, and I have pictures to prove it. Mark and Mary have been married for 7 years; they met on a study abroad program in Paris while in college, or as Mark refers to it, a "drunk-abroad" program. Mark is from Nottingham, England, and Mary is from Minneapolis. They live in a lovely one-bedroom apartment in Tribeca; but it is the closet, their large by NY standards, astonishing closet that reveals the true nature of this couple.
Sure I could tell you how attractive they are, or about the charming parties they throw, or their delightfully varied group of zany friends, but I won't. Though a happily married couple with a nice apartment in Manhattan may seem like the stuff dreams are made of, it isn't enough to achieve legend status. What pushes Mark & Mary into that truth is stranger than fiction territory is their closet; it is a husband who loves to shop as much as his wife, for his wife and for himself, and a wife who lets him because his taste is just that good.
I walked into their bedroom; sunlight streaming through the window, closet doors flung open, and my heart skips a beat at the wonder of it all. After catching my breath I begin noticing things; strange things like ...the vastness, an organized chaos, colors, patterns, fabrics, it was all coming at me so quickly I'm utterly overwhelmed. I then began to notice specific things; I was struck by the absence of a gender gap (the gap you generally see in closets shared by couples, with the women taking up at least twice the space). Mark and Mary each have a side of the closet ...their own equal side. And though the size of their closet is enough to evoke closet-envy, it is as jam-packed as any closet I've seen.
Like the rest of us both Mark and Mary suffered the usual childhood fashion traumas; hand-me-downs, red polyester bell bottoms, and withheld emblems of cool such as child-sized leather jackets. Unlike many of us they have risen above those experiences and turned fashion into something they can enjoy with each other. Mark often shops for Mary, for example several years ago he found a large black sequenced top in a vintage shop that he was convinced would make a perfect dress for his wife. Mary seemed almost abashed when she admitted that of the two of them Mark is the one with the patience to scope out amazing finds at places like Century 21 and Barney's Warehouse Sales.
Mary is the fashion program director at Gen Art; not only is she committed to supporting emerging designers through her work, but her closet reveals that her support of extends to wearing these young talents as well. I try to abstain from "label-dropping", in fact I'm not particularly interested in closets filled with expensive designer labels, but Mary's devotion to smaller designers bears mentioning. She has stunning pieces from designers like Carla Behrle, Victor Marc, Rebecca Danenberg, Sara Samoiloff, Oxygene Collectif, Isabella Fiore, Alice Roi, and United Bamboo.
However, her closet is not just filled with signs of her loyalty to independent designers, Mary also has a weakness for whimsical vintage clothing. Brightly colored Pucci pieces and beautifully beaded feminine tops and dresses round out her wardrobe. Though there are fun, dramatic and dazzling things in her closet, Mary also has a lot of fun with practical items. She seeks out clothes that have subtle yet unusual details to them, things that are both girly and edgy.
Mark's job requires a hint of conservative style however; he always manages to add an offbeat quirkiness to his ensembles. Like Mary the details are often subtle, yet compelling in their own way. Whether it is by simply wearing a pair of unusual socks under a suit that are safely hidden till he sits, or by combining a shirt, tie and suit all with narrow stripes going in different directions. It is Mark's "play clothes" that really allow him the chance to explore his stylish whims. Mark is the only man I've ever met with not one, but two ruffled tuxedo shirts (one bright red, one blue), and the panache to carry them off.
He is a great fan of the English clothing line UTH (formerly known as Jigsaw) and is always on the lookout for additions to his wonderfully wacky wardrobe. He has one sweater that appears normal on first glance, but zip-zip-zip later and he's a mysterious Ninja-like figure. Lately he's been into funky rocker t-shirts under vintage suits, pants that can best be described as clam diggers, and Guayabera's. Though I think it has been years since he's worn many of the wild things filling his closet, his funky plaid pants, "so-tacky-they-work" button-down shirts, and the hot pink tuxedo he lent the best-man at his wedding, round out his unconventional wardrobe.
Well friends, I hate to disappoint, but for all discovered in Mark and Mary's closet, I found no skeletons. You may hope there is some fatal flaw to this tale; something that makes it easier to believe this couple is real. They are living proof of an age-old urban legend, and their closet confirms something women have thought for decades ... the couple that shops together, stays together!
ne evening not so long ago, my friend Cator arrived at a club carrying what appeared to be a jaunty vintage bag. I assumed that the square, black, white and brown striped bag contained a typical evening outs contents, (wallet, keys, lip gloss). Knowing Cator, I should have known better. Once inside, comfortably situated far from the clamoring masses, the bag was opened to reveal the perfect mini-bar. This brilliant accessory allowed Cator to spend the evening in perfect comfort, avoiding the frenzied scene at the bar. This multipurpose accessory also revealed a great deal about its owner. The bag, like Cator is a precise mix of fabulous yet functional.
Originally from Atlanta, Cator Woolford Sparks, has the charm of a modern southern gentleman. He was once quoted in WWD as saying (insert southern accent here) "I'm from Atlanta, get into it"... However, using the South to describe Cator would paint only part of a lovely picture. It is more than southern charm that has made Cator the splendid gent that he is. While living in London to study fashion marketing; he interned at the Emporio Armani Public Relations firm, and the BBC. It was during this time that his sense of style was defined; a self-described "dandy in distress in search of champagne", Cator often dresses this part to perfection.
To clarify, dandy style originated in England during the late 1700's. The original dandy was George 'Beau' Brummell, a gentleman who supposedly spent over four hours each day getting dressed. From the frock coat to trousers with tight waists, pocket watches, outrageously high collars, and Chelsea boots, this is an extreme fashion statement. As Cator explained to me, creating this dramatic look authentically takes an incredible level of stamina (remember George spent four hours dressing), as well as resources. The cost alone is enough to prevent someone from adopting full dandy fashion. Fortunately Cator does not spend four hours each day getting dressed; instead he just allows this eccentric style to influence his own personal style, including adopting some of the classic dandy attitude toward life.
Dandies are often classified only by a style of dress, however, the traits of wit, amiability and loyalty are also considered characteristics of the classic dandy, and they are certainly qualities that Cator possesses. To infuse his wardrobe with the tailored dandy essence Cator often turns to his favorite modern designer; the outrageous and controversial Vivienne Westwood. The sophisticated tailoring and inspired details of Westwood clothes are the perfect match for Cator's progressive version of this classic style. Other influences are classic designers Vionnet, Schaperelli and Dior. Dolly Parton, Josephine Baker, Auntie Mame, Diana Vreeland and Bjork are other sources of influence and inspiration.
When I arrived at Cator's apartment he mysteriously rushed me to his friend's apartment in the building next door. The infamous lack of closet space that challenges most New Yorker's forces Cator to store his winter wardrobe in an alternative destination. He has an amazing collection of coats from the navy frock coat with red crosses that he discovered at a Salvation Army store in Ashville, North Carolina, a posh pinstriped, double-breasted jacket, and a sweeping dramatic cape. To some degree, Cator's coats are staid compared to the rest of his wardrobe. His closet is an edited and cohesive testimonial to style; each item has a specific and significant role. The only things in mixed abundance are his collection of colorful, vintage scarves and ties. There are also hints of punk style; a zany collection of t-shirts that seem to be in direct opposition to Cator's dandy persona. It is these contradictions that make his style and his personality so grand.
Cator was also kind enough to give me the grand tour of his apartment, which is filled with old-world charm, pictures of his family line the walls; black & white photographs that simultaneously lend a sense of history and the slightest bit of kitsch. I spotted a pair of embroidered gold slippers (a gift from India), tucked neatly under his "comfy" chair. They brought to mind an image of Cator relaxing after work, putting on his slippers and reading the paper, or in his case the latest copy of the over-sized Visionaire Magazine. A framed telegram addressed to a Cator Woolford (Cator's Great Grandfather), from Franklin Roosevelt caught my attention. The telegram read "I hope you are too busy with the affairs of life to bother with counting the years" it was written in honor of Cator Woolford's birthday.
I began this project with the idea that discovering what's in peoples closets would tell me all there is to know about them; and with Cator this proved true, but at the same time I discovered, much to my surprise, considering the fabulousness of his wardrobe, someone who isn't merely defined, or transported, or recreated by the clothes in his closet, rather someone so genuinely infused with great character and history that he is the defining factor in his wardrobe. Take away all of the grand clothes and you'd still have this marvelous person touting his beloved Auntie Mame's infamous quote, "Live! Life is a banquet and most poor souls are starving to death!" as the key to life.
